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How to Fix A Moving Head Light?
Warm reminder: The moving head light is a more sophisticated device. It integrates electronics, machinery, and optics into one, and has high requirements on the environment, transportation, and application. Therefore, its failure is inevitable. Here, combined with the fault phenomenon of moving head lights, an analysis of the possible causes is made for the reference of relevant stage lighting designers, event planners.
1. How do you fix your moving head light when it is no response at startup:
• Check whether the voltage is 220V.
• Check the insurance in the lamp.
• Check whether the switching power supply has an output voltage (32V, 12V, 5V).
• Check whether the circuit board is working properly (indicator light).
• Red is the power indicator light.
• Yellow is the CPU working indicator.
• Green is the signal work indicator light.
2. How do you fix your moving head light when it can be reset at startup but does not light.
• Check the quality of the bulb and whether the bulb is installed correctly.
• Whether there is 12V output of the switching power supply, and if there is a 12V voltage at the lighting of the mainboard temperature control short circuit.
• Whether the temperature control switch has an open circuit.
• Whether the instantaneous output voltage of the electronic rectifier lighting is about 380V.
• Whether the electronic trigger is damaged (replace the electronic trigger test lamp).
3. After working for a period of time, the moving head lights automatically reset:
• The output of the switching power supply is unstable. Change the power supply.
• The wire is loose in the line or there is no compression at the crimping line, resulting in poor contact, and thus an automatic reset occurs. Press thw wire well.
4. The bulb automatically defoams.
• After the bulb is extinguished, it will automatically turn on after a while. Check whether the heat dissipation system is working properly. If the heat dissipation system fails, the temperature inside the lamp body will be too high, and the temperature control switch will automatically trip to ensure the safe use of the lamp. When the electronic lighting is turned off, the lamp will automatically light up when the temperature of the lamp body decreases.
• After the bulb is extinguished, the bulb cannot be automatically turned on: the problem of the bulb itself, the surface of the bulb sphere is whitened, and the inside is black, and the phenomenon of extinguishing the bubble will appear after a period of time (end of the life of the bulb).
• The lamp will also have automatic protection against bubbles when there is no control signal for a long time, and the lamp will automatically light after the signal is connected.
5. The light bulb is on and the motor reset is normal, but it is not controlled.
• Check the connection signal (DMX).
• Check the lamp address code.
• Check whether the signal IC (75176) is damaged.
6. Burn-in insurance or power trip.
• Check whether the rectifier is short-circuited, and the impact current is too large at startup.
• Whether the bulb is connected to the ground.
• Whether the high voltage inside the lamp is short-circuited to the ground (referring to the presence of a ground wire).
7. The light bulb is not triggered, the light cannot be turned on or the brightness is not enough.
• The working voltage of the lamp is too low.
• The trigger is faulty (replacement).
• The service life of the bulb has reached (replacement).
• The electronic rectifier is damaged.
8. The light bulb can be bright but can not eliminate the bubble:
• Whether the menu is set to "electronic lighting off".
• Whether the temperature control is shorted to ground.
• Whether the rectifier is damaged.
9. The moving head lights can be bright and can be controlled, but it is not white light after reset.
• Whether the distance between the Hall element and the magnet is between 2 and 3 mm.
• Whether the lamp is adjusted at zero position.\
10. Motor jitter or out-of-step:
• Whether the motor is short-circuited, causing IC burnout (3711).
• The motherboard is damaged.
• Whether the fixing screws of each pattern wheel and color wheel are tight.
• The positioning between the Hall element and the magnet is inaccurate.
11. The channel parts are stuck: the jam is generally due to mechanical reasons (except for the CMY color film, when a CMY color film is broken, causing it to fall off, thereby affecting the normal operation of other color films, a color card will appear at this time Dead phenomenon)
• Whether the components are deformed to cause rubbing.
• Whether the installation of each component is in place.
• Whether there is any phenomenon of the parts, which leads to stuck.
• Failure of the stepper motor causes the motor to jam.
12. No display on the display panel.
• The display panel is damaged.
• Whether the seven-position cable connected to the display panel is loose or damaged.
13. The X and Y axes are out of sync and cannot be positioned.
• Too much dust on the light root causes infrared light to be unable to be controlled in place.
• The light coupling plate is broken, and the distance between the light coupling plate and the light coupling plate is improperly adjusted (when excluded, the lotus root should be in the middle of the light coupling plate, and there should be no scratching, bumping, or rubbing)
• Whether the stepping motor mounting screws are too loose or too tight.
• Whether the fixing screws of the transmission belt are tight.
• Whether the belt is broken.
14. The light bulb is on but not controlled.
• Check whether the display panel shows DMX signal input.
• Check the address code and reprogram the address code.
• Whether the external signal cable is well connected.
• Whether the signal connection in the lamp is loose.
15. The light bulb does not light.
• The trigger is damaged.
• The folded section of the power line of the bulb circuit.
• The relay does not attract or the contact is not good.
• Short circuit of ballast coil, etc.
16. The light bulb will go out after a while.
• The bulb is aging or of poor quality.
• The fan does not rotate or is dusty.
• Temperature control resistance aging.
• The terminal has aged, etc.
17. Failure of the bulb explosion.
• The power supply voltage is high.
• There is a momentary power failure when the circuit is not in good contact.
• The tightness of the bulb electrode terminal is uncomfortable.
• Short circuit of ballast coil, etc.
18. The channel does not turn or the card.
• Motor cable section.
• The driver IC burns down.
• Desoldering of motor lead terminals.
• Poor contact at both ends of the cable.
• The virtual connection of the mainboard IC.
• Lubrication.
19. Daily maintenance of moving head lights.
• For optical components, first use a vacuum cleaner or a pressure blower to gently blow off the dust on the surface, wipe off the particulate matter with odorless cotton paper or cotton cloth soaked in clean water, and remove the dust with a cotton cloth or odorless paper soaked in ethyl propanol And residues, use distilled water for final cleaning, and then dry with a soft cotton cloth.
• The parts with coated color film, pattern film, and optical lens, because the surface of the coating layer is very brittle, it is easy to scratch, so do not use destructive solvents for cleaning.
• The air filter cotton should be replaced frequently to make it in the best ventilation state and enhance the heat dissipation of the lamps.
• After the tour show, use the lighting console to extinguish the bubbles and the lamp does not cut off the power, and let it continue to work for a while (let the fan in the lamp continue to work to reduce the temperature of the lamp body).
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